Mort Declares Kansas Is Flat!

This is a partial posting for the past 9 days. I'll post the rest in a few days. The tour is now in Royal Gorge Colorado.

Saturday 6-19 day 46 - 47 miles 2112 total. Scott City to Tribune. Our last day in Kansas and a great one it was.  Cool and overcast in the morning with a nice east tailwind and only 47 miles, almost like a rest day. We've been very lucky with the weather in Kansas. Only one ugly day, Thursday, no rain since Newton, and even a tailwind some of the time.

Fixing a flat. One fixer - 2 supervisors.

Friday 6-18 day 45 - 57 miles 2065 total. Ness City to Scott City. The day began much as yesterday ended with headwinds, but they soon shifted out of the north, then  after lunch a great tailwind for the last 20 miles.

I'm a sucker for old barns and found these two along the way.

Thursday 6-17 day 44 - 66 miles 2008 total miles. Larned to Ness City. Mort declares that Kansas is even flatter than flat! Today we hit a hard earned 2000 mile mark. Visited Fort Larned National Historic Site, the best preserved Indian fort in the U.S. This is a must visit for any history buff. Our tour guide, Zack, was very knowledgeable and a great guide. The fort was complete with all the supplies, uniforms, ammo, and things necessary to run an Indian fort. It was really amazing and time well spent. The rest of the day went downhill. Tough 30 mph head winds and near 100 degree temps made this one of the hardest days of the trip. We were all happy when it was over.

Wednesday 6-16 day 43 - 54 miles, 1942 total. Sterling to Larned. Mort declares Kansas is even flatter than he thought yesterday. This was a real grunt of a day, 50 miles with no place for water, food or people.

Kansas icons Wheat, Oil and Hay

Trike Bikes

Tuesday 6-15 day 42 - 62 miles total miles 1888. Newton to Sterling. Mort declares Kansas is flat.  Wonderful day to be on a bike: cool morning, 82 degree high, partial tailwind 10-15mph. With cycling easy I had time to look around and get some good photos:

Lunch at the Mustard Seed Coffee Shop in Buhler Kansas, a wonderful place.

Amber, Robert, Mort, Bryn, Lee, Olaf

Nice restored pink Studebaker

Old Chevy truck behind the restoration shed.

The News From Newton

Monday 6-14 Layover day in Newton. We now have a 9 day stretch with no layover days. Next posting will probably be from Royal Gorge, CO.

Lee, Olaf, Robert in the Flint Hills

Sunday 6-13 day 40 - 74 miles 1752 total miles. Eureka to Newton. Ten miles into the ride the skies opened up and we were drenched for about 10 minuets, then it just rained for another 20. For most of the rest of the day ugly clouds threatened, but nothing happened. We did get a great wind out of the east tailwind for the last 20 miles into Newton. Actually a good day to be on a bike, most of it was through the Flint Hills.

Photo of a long train on the horizon with an ominous roll cloud above it.

Heard of cattle with roll cloud. 

Saturday 6-12 day 39 - 64 miles 1752 total. Chanute to Eureka. Entered the beautiful Flint Hills today. The Europeans on the trip rushed to Eureka so they could watch the World Cup soccer football game between The United States and England. The game was an exciting 1 to 1 tie. WOW?

Friday 6-11 day 38 - 61 miles 1688 total miles. Pittsburg to Chanute, a no granny gear day. The first of many I hope. The wind was out of the south 10  to 20 MPH, but the route was east to west so it was a side wind most of the day. I rode in an eight man pace line and averaged 13.5 mph, my fastest of the trip yet. Flat is fast! Installed my new bike computer today.

Ahh Kansas! Its good to be home.

With the tip a little more than a third over here are some random interesting pictures that I have not posted yet. Enjoy.

Wednesday 6-9 day 36 - 70 miles today 1627 total. Ash Grove to Pittsburg, Kansas. Overnight in Ash Grove we had sever storms: heavy rain, wind, lightening, but no damage to tents. We started the day with clouds and rain but ended with a great tailwind and sunshine in Ahh Kansas! What a great place for a layover day.

Lunch was in Golden City at Cooky's Cafe where they have the best pie on the route - certified.

Tuesday 6-8 day 35 - 50 miles today 1557 total. Marshfield to Ash Grove, MO. Another tough day. The Ozark hills are relentless as any in Kentucky or Virginia. I have begun st hate the downhills because I know they just mean another steep climb. Saw some very unusual clouds today along with beautiful Purple Cornflowers.

Monday 6-7 day 34 - 65 miles today 1507 total. Huston to Marshfield, MO. Cloudy, cool, sprinkles at times with just enough hills to remind me we are still in the Ozarks. With not a bar in town we are staying at the city park (no alcohol allowed) we're sneaking beers like a 16 year olds.

Nice view of the Ozarks

Sunday 6-6 day 33 - 43 miles today 1442 total. Eminence to Huston, MO. Five hilly miles to Alley Springs and a long steep pull out of the valley and the rest of the ride was only moderately hilly. With a nice cool north breeze it was a good day to be on a bike.

Mov'n on in Missouri

Alley Springs near Eminence, MO

Friday 6-4 day 31 52 miles 1399 total miles. Lesterville to Eminence. This may have been the hardest day of the trip with many up and down long hills, and hot and humid. Brother Bob has meet me here in Eminence and we're staying at the Shady Lane hotel. I've been looking for Crab Cakes since Williamsburg, VA with no success. Finally here in the middle of the Ozarks they were on the menu at Ozark Orchard Restaurant. They were actually pretty tasty. While here I got a haircut at the best damn barbershop in Eminence, maybe anywhere, Comb's Barbershop. What a real treat.

Current River

Thursday 6-3 day 30 52 miles 1347 total miles. Farmington to Lesterville. After an unplanned detour to Pilot Knob some of us visited Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park. This would be a great place to spend the day exploring, swimming and picnicking. I spent about two hours there. The rest of the day had some big hills, but not too many. Camped in Lesterville on the Black River.

Wednesday 6-2 day 29 52 miles, 1295 total. Chester to Farmington, MO. I had another first today - a flat! Roofing nail through the rear tire. Oh well it had to happen sometime, actually the group had four flats today. Crossed the Mississippi River into Missouri today and more hills. After 35 miles of heat and hills with 10 more to go we came to a real oasis, Crown Valley Brewing Company tasting and sampling  room. A great treat for a thirsty cyclist and a place I must come back to. For the last ten miles of the ride the road was not so straight, and if you're wondering, it's none of your damn business. The nights accommodations were in Al's Place TransAmerica  Hostel. This is a superb place for bikers, with bunks, beds, linen's, kitchen, showers and bathrooms. It's a remodeled jail. A very good day for a biker.

Tuesday 6-1 day 28 55 miles total 1244 miles. Carbondale to Chester. Took the levee route a hot damn flat day of cycling. Most of the route was along the flood plain and levee system of the Mississippi River where we got our first look at the river. We had our first group casualty today: the Folts' Randy and Meg. The days were too long, too hard, and not what they expected. I hate to see them go, but if they we not having fun, its best. Chester, IL is the home of Popeye the Sailor Man.

Relaxing In Carbondale, IL

To find yet different pictures and perspective of the trip visit Ambers Blog Check out her YouTube video of the thunderstorm.

Sunday 5-30 day 26 Dixon Springs to Carbondale 56 miles total 1189 miles. The most fun day cycling I've had on the trip so far. Many rolling hills that you can "sling shot" over. I'm still getting stronger and more accustomed to the grind - having more fun. Took a pleasant break at Grassy Lake State Park. Layover day in Carbondale is very welcome, my legs are getting sore also my behind needs a rest.

Olaf, Lee and Robert

Well look here, a Jayhawk in the middle of Illinois. They're everywhere.

Saturday 5-29 day 25 Marion to Dixon Springs State Park, 50 miles 1133 total miles. Crossed the Ohio river by ferry into Illinois, but we didn't loose the hills. Visited Cave in Rock State Park. Found our first real Saloon in Golconda, IL, the Sweetwater Saloon. Everyone was very friendly and bought us beers. There are ten miles still to ride, but who can resist free beer and fun banter!

Friday 5-28 day 24 Slaughter to Marion 31 miles - 1083 miles total. With all the excitement yesterday I forgot to mention that we hit the 1,000 mile mark, only 3,300 more to go. Today was an easy day albeit the hills seem to go only one way - up! We spent the night at the Baptist Church in Marion. It is the nicest indoor facility we have stayed in thus far, and maybe ever. Big rec room, great kitchen, showers, restrooms, all the comforts except wi-fi. The ice cream at the Marion cafe was delicious. I must eat more ice cream.

Downtown Marion

I won this Lockheed Martin jersey at a raffle by Garry and Beth Feltus 

Disaster In Kentucky

Thursday 5-27 day 23 Garry and Beth's Farm to Darryl and Kim Patton's Farm (Slaughter, KY). 81 miles 1052 miles total. Wow! what a day!! This has been the longest, hottest, bazaar and disastrous day on the tour. We suffered through 89 degree heat, humidity, hills, then rain, wind, lightening, hail, and then disaster! The day was scheduled to be a long one and everyone was rolling along nicely through lunch. We stopped at Hometown Proud IGA store in Utica Kentucky for lunch break when we noticed afternoon thunderstorms may be coming. With about 30 miles left in the ride the storm hit with lightening flashing all around, wind that flattened hay waiting to be mowed, rain coming down so hard the other side of the street couldn't be seen and marble size hail. Wonderful day to be on a bike! Everyone did find a garage, shed or roof to duck under , but we all got very wet. The storm lasted for about half an hour and we resumed the ride in a light rain. Unfortunately this was not the worst of it. With 22 miles left our leader, Jack, was attacked by one of Kentucky's infamous fierce wild dogs. The resultant crash left Jack with a broken collar bone, cracked ribs and numerous other scrapes and bruises. He must be off the bike for 4 weeks and the tour is in limbo. Arrangements have been made to Carbondale, IL, but after that things are uncertain. We spent the night with Jack's friend and ACA tour guide Darryl and Kim Patton. They were very generous hosts and an unmeasurable help to Jack.

(ps. I am posting this in Carbondale, IL and the plan for now is for Jack to follow the tour in his struck and keep us together and make arrangements that way until and unless ACA finds a replacement. It looks now like the tour will continue.)

Friendly couple on horseback. I wonder if their butt is any happier than mine?

Wednesday 5-26 day 22 Hodgenville to Feltus Holler Farm, Caneyville, KY. 60 miles, 971 total miles. The terrain was flat to rolling hills with the last 10 miles being very hilly, but a no walk day. Visited a very nice bike shop in Litchfield, KY and replaced the battery in my odometer. It worked for 1.11 miles! Guess it's not the battery. Spent the night at the farm of Garry and Beth Feltus, two Adventure Cycling Associates who are paying back and forward for the generosity of others. They were very hospitable and it was a wonderful night.

Garry and Beth Feltus

Happiness is seeing a full moon through my tent.

Jack with his buddy, BOB.

Leading the charge or bringing up the rear? Joe, Bryn, our leader Jack Pettry, and Amber.

Tuesday 5-25 day 21 Springfield to Hodgenville, 50 miles, 911 total miles. Hodgenville is proud of being President Lincoln's birth place, although he grew up in Illinois. I visited the area, but the shrine enclosing his log cabin was closed for renovation. This is agriculture and horse country and noticeably more affluent, but the dogs are still out there.

Monday 5-24 day 20 Berea to Springfield, 78 miles 861 total miles. Long hot dry day. I took two detours (lost my way) was chased by dogs and ran out of water, but all in all a good day. Hills are becoming smaller and country is more rolling and open. Had a good nights sleep at the Springfield Inn in a real bed.

This is tobacco country with lots of charcoal barns. They aid in drying and curing tobacco leaves.

Sunday 5-23 Layover day in Berea, KY. Michel shows off his portable bike cleaning tool - a toothbrush.

The Routine

Sunday 5-23 day 19 layover day in Berea, KY. There is a routine most of us have fallen into: eat, ride, eat, sleep. It's time to start exploring more. This is the second day of sunshine - no rain, and my spirits have improved considerably. I am writing this blog from a McDonalds in Berea. The first one I have seen in 19 days. I guess the world is still out there. It's amazing how small mine is.

Saturday 5-22 day 18 Boonville to Berea - 52 miles 783 total miles. This seems to be a poor depressed area, but also very pretty. Many houses are little more than shacks, trailers, and houses piled high with junk, and the people reflect their living conditions. There are lots of 'bubbas' but most people are very friendly and curious about where we are from and where we are going and can't believe we are doing it on a bike. This morning I ran out of water in the middle of nowhere and no towns for miles. I stopped at a pretty little farmhouse where a lady was cutting some roses. She graciously offered water from a spigot and it was the best water I've had on the trip.

Friday 5-21 day 17. Hindamin to Boonville - 64 miles 731 total miles. Still some big climbs, but a shorter day than yesterday. More wild dogs. camped behind a church with one portapotty and one cold shower for 16 bikers!

Thursday 5-20 day 16. Breaks to Hindamin, Kentucky - 73 miles total 667. Crossed into Kentucky today and it seems like it should be a milestone, but we have many more to go. Kentucky's motto should be "The Wild Dog State" I don't know where they all come from, most of the just bark, but some actually try to get ya. Long tough day with big climbs followed by a strenuous push up to the Hindamin Historical Society where we camped. Dave was very hospitable with iced tea, beer and ice cream sunday for dessert. Naturally it rained overnight.

Wednesday 5-19 day 15. Rosedeale to Interstate Breaks State Park - 44 miles 594 total. A nice ride spoiled by 3 walks. A killer hill began the day and 3 big climbs finished it. Then it rained. We are three miles from crossing the border, tomorrow it is on to Kentucky. I've biked across Virginia while my nose ran. Photo is taken from Breaks Park, I'm sure there is a state border down there somewhere.

Tuesday 5-18 Day 14, Damascus to Rosedale - 38 miles 550 total miles.

The first three miles were the most scenic of lands the trip. Through farm lands with quiet streams and rivers with old barns and mills. Then a sever 3 mile 8% upgrade that I thought would never end. That evening we shared accommodations with Fred and Barbara, 76 and 74 years young and married 54 years. They are from Australia and cycling the TransAm on a tandem. What a great couple and inspiration for all of us. Oh yes, it rained.